Visitors Guide to Getting around London
As a Londoner, and traveller to other cities, it’s often
very hard to figure out how to get around a city without paying for a taxi.
London is congested and every local uses public transport.
The primary means of transport are the “tube”, buses and
foot; but also the “overground” and the commuter trains. This blog includes safety, SIM card and dress code information too.
Public Transport / Oyster Card
The most important thing, unless you plan to walk or take
taxis, is to get yourself an Oyster card. Often these are sold on the plane
coming in. However, you don’t need to buy a card at all, because if you have a
credit card with contactless payment, you can use it as your credit card. (But,
it will make for a lot of transactions, so if your credit card charges a
transaction fee, don’t do this). Buying single tickets each time is expensive,
and there are often very long lines. Also, it’s simply not possible to pay for
a bus with cash: you have to use Oyster.
Oyster is a plastic, credit card sized electronic card. You
place your card on a yellow circle at the entrance and exit to all stations; or
just at the entrance to buses. There is a “new card” fee of £3, which is
refunded if you can be bothered to get in line to claim your refund. If you
have credit on the card, then you can also reclaim that.
Oyster pricing is not as simple as in other cities.
Basically, the price for each journey is debited from your card. But, at 2am
each morning, computers work out if you could have travelled cheaper with some
travel card or other. At that point, you are refunded and benefit you could
have had. What this means is that, if you’re spending £20 in a day on single
tickets, you need to have that £20 as credit, even if you’ll subsequently get
it discounted to £8. If you register you Oyster card online, then you can claim
the refund online when you get home. If you use a contactless credit card, then
there’s no “new card” fee, and you won’t be charged any more than you need to
pay, meaning that there’s nothing to reclaim anyway.
Remember that Amex is not readily accepted in Europe, except
in very expensive places. Visa and Mastercard are accepted ubiquitously. Note
that for most travel and e-commerce sites, you have to pay a premium to use a
credit card (typically 2.5%, more for Amex if it’s taken).
Although it’s cheaper to use Oyster than to pay for single
tickets all the time, it is not like most other countries with a flat fare. The
price depends on the journey you’ve taken, and sometimes (on longer journeys)
on the time of day. Transport in London isn’t cheap either, when compared to
other countries, but still much cheaper than taxis. Londoners just stick the
Oyster card and travel, and don’t really think about the price. After all, you
might not agree with the price, but it’s faster and cheaper than a taxi, and
often you’re only option.
You can use Oyster on all transport in London, except the
Emirates Line (which is actually a cable car) and Water Ferrys. You can also
use Oyster on any commuter train so long as you are not going further than the
Overground network (these are the orange lines on the map).
Visitors Tips to
finding your Tube Train
Directions to platforms are referred by the name of the line
(e.g. Bakerloo or Northern) and the colour. As you get closer to the platform,
you will also get a direction (Northbound, Eastbound etc). Be aware that if
you’re the line on your tube map is diagonal, it will be marked either of the
two possible directions.
The exception is the Northern Line, which you’ll see from
the map splits into two when in central London. At Euston (the split at the
north), you need to look for “Northern Line via Charing Cross” for the western
branch, and “Northern Line via Bank” for the Eastern Line.
If you’re getting out of town, many lines fork, and not all
trains go all the way. The digital displays on platforms, and on the front of
the train will display the last station that the train is going to. Note
that this isn’t always the last station on the line. You need to check that
your station is on the way to that last station.
The first tubes typically leave around 5:45 from their
origin, and the last trains typically leave their origin before midnight. On
platforms, and easy to google for, are the times of the first and last trains.
Again, google maps is a great resource if you need to get to Heathrow very
early, but you might have to take the Heathrow Express if it’s very very early
(e.g. to catch a 6:30am flight).
Figuring out the
Buses
Buses are nice because they can often jump traffic, and on
the top deck you get a lovely view of London. However they do get stuck in
traffic and cannot be relied upon to get you from A to B in the fastest time.
It’s not OK anymore to simply jump on a bus that’s stopped at lights (that was
stopped in the nineties), and you have to get on at a proper stop. Also, you
have to have an Oyster card (or contactless credit card) to use a bus, as it’s
not possible to pay with cash.
However, the bus network goes places you can’t reach by
tube, and there are two bus systems: the system in the daytime, and a different
set at night, which are identified because the bus route has an N prefix (e.g.
N68). Night buses are often full of drunks and have a reputation of not being
that pleasant to ride on. However, CCTV is all around, and you’re quite safe.
Because the bus network is so much denser than the tube
network, there isn’t really a decent map of the system in the same way that
tube map is so easy to read. Also, the bus network relies entirely on names of
places, so if you don’t know the names, the whole thing is inpenetrable. There
isn’t even a decent system of numbering the stops, so you can’t even say “I
need to get off at stop 89, and I’m at stop 88 now, so it’s the next one”. Even
as a local, I stare at google maps whenever I’m on a bus route I don’t know.
However, if you have a data plan on your phone, then the buses are actually
quite easy via google maps.
At any stop other than the really big ones, buses only stop
if someone sticks out a hand and waves (to get on), or if someone presses the
“Stop” button before the stop.
To Bus, Tube or Walk
London is a great city, so walking is a good option if you
want to. You’ll see a lot more. Do remember that the tube map, is not an
accurate distance representation. Walking in rush hour is also trouble if you
have large suitcases.
The tube network is complex (though the map is decent), and
often deep. Within the central area, you should consider the time taken to get
from the street to the platform, and back up again, and the 1-2 minutes to wait
for a train, could easily come to 20 minutes. Walking is usually a faster
option than the tube for central London journeys of 1-3 stops.
Buses are great if you can find the stop, except in rush
hour. I recommend if you have a data plan, to use Google Maps, because it’s
hardwired into the transport system computers and will walk you to exactly the
stop. Otherwise, do your research before you tackle the buses.
Airport Transfers
From Heathrow:
There is a very expensive train (called the Heathrow Express) into Paddington.
This has the advantage that it’s very clean and the actual time on the train is
short. But it’s very expensive, only leaves every 30 minutes (which means if
you’ve just missed one, you could be in London before the train arrives), and
it arrives in Paddington, which is not that well connected. You also need to
buy a separate ticket for the Heathrow Express. The Piccadilly line is less
attractive and journey time to central London is about 45 minutes, but it’s
much cheaper, you can use Oyster, much more frequent, and depending on where you’re
trying to get to, is much more likely to take you where you want to be. In rush
hour, a cab can take hours and cost hundreds – not a good idea, especially if
you’re in a hurry.
- From Gatwick: Gatwick is actually closer to the south coast than to London, but that’s not a problem. There are fairly frequent trains into London (Victoria) or Clapham Junction (which is a great interchange for the south west of the city). The fast train into London (Gatwick Express) saves you about 10 minutes compared to the regular train into London, but is about three times the price. Note that Gatwick is not on the Oyster network, and you need to buy a ticket. Also note that the Clapham train is quite infrequent and the last train is not that late. Taxis are an option, but not a cheap one.
- From Luton: Luton is way out of town to the north. There’s a train that gets into Kings Cross, and you need to buy a ticket for it. You can also get a shuttle bus from the exit. (Luton only has one terminal).
- From City: City airport is very close to London as the crow flies, but not in terms of time because it is not that well connected. Be aware that unless your destination is quite close to the city or the airport, you should prepare quite a lot of time to get to your destination. Definitely use google maps to figure it out the best route.
Choosing a Hotel
If you absolutely have to be central, then book central and
be prepared to pay for it. If you’re trying to budget, then seriously consider
a cheaper hotel which is close to a tube line. Five miles out of town will get
you a room for £40, rather than the minimum £100 inside the circle line (the
yellow tube line), and the tube will nowhere cost the difference, and will take
almost no time. Distance (as the crow flies) is not a guide to how long it will
take to get into London. At the end points of the tube, you get express trains
which get you into London faster than a slow train coming in from just a few
miles away. For example, the train from Watford takes just 17 minutes and runs every
10-15 minutes.
Getting a cell phone
w/ data Plan
There are no restrictions on buying SIM cards in the UK. You
don’t need any ID, and at airports you can simply buy them in vending machines.
You can also buy them in newsagents, stations, airports etc. All the networks
have complete coverage within London (though not on the tube network), and 4G
is pretty standard, though the 3G network is also faster than most people are
used to. Most of the time, you can Skype/Hangouts over the cell network. You do
need to have a GSM phone into which you can put your SIM card, so CDMA phones
from Verizon or Sprint won’t work. You can buy a very cheap Android phone for
£30 in shops like PC World, Currys and some of the larger stationers like
Staples.
The only considerations on choosing the SIM card are the
price of international calling (if you don’t have a calling card you can use),
and the cost of data. If you’re travelling around Europe, then it’s worth doing
some research on roaming costs. Unlike the US, even going to France can be a
very expensive experience if you don’t get a plan. Remember that although the
UK has no restrictions on anyone buying SIM cards, other European countries are
not so lax, so it might be hard to buy a SIM card in France, or Spain. In these
countries (amongst others), you need to show a residents’ ID to get a SIM card.
You’re better off buying a UK card and getting a pan-European data plan unless
you know a local.
Typically, you buy a SIM card, and then you buy a data
add-on. Paying for data on a per MB basis can be expensive, so as soon as you
stick the SIM card in the phone, dial the customer number (which will be free)
and ask for an add-on.
Typically, prices for “add-ons” are around £10 for 600
minutes, and £10 for 4GB of data. Note that the UK does not count incoming
calls as minutes. It’s usually a lot less hassle than trying to find wifi all
the time.
Tipping in London
Sadly for Americans, there are different rules for tipping
if you’re American (and look like a tourist). As a local:
- · Restaurants with table service: 10-15%, depending on how much you liked the service. You can go over, but going under is a slur.
- · Restaurants where you order at the bar: 5-10%, depending on whether you liked the server.
- · Taxis: round up to the nearest pound or two, or 5%
- · Bars: tips not expected
- · Concierge, bell boy etc: not expected, but appreciated
- · Tour guides: Expected, and wide discretion
- · Some random help (e.g. directions): a tip would be offensive. If the help was extreme, then a beer or a present (flowers for the wife perhaps) might be ok, but really only if it’s extreme.
- · If you are using a credit card that doesn’t have Chip and PIN, then add 5% for their hassle and additional costs.
There’s an unfair expectation that American’s tip more than
others, so the perception is that American’s will tip more. Adding 5% to the
above will go down well, but certainly is not really expected.
Note that “Service” is often included in the bill you get.
It will be on the bill somewhere if it is, and no one will take offence if you
ask if service is already on there. Don’t pay the service twice. This is most
common for large groups (6+) and in tourist centres.
Adding service to a credit card: you can ask for service to
be added to the credit card, but remember to tell them before you give
them your card. It can’t be added afterwards. Cash tips are preferred though.
Safety and Security
Some tips:
- · London is pretty safe. Crime has never been lower.
- · Don’t be flashy, and keep the obvious rules about looking after valuables
- · Try not to obviously be a tourist
- · Try not to be loud mouthed and screaming to each other, especially if not in English
- · Put something in wallet and bags so that someone can return your item to you. Generally, if people can return something you’ve dropped, they will. (And the obvious, don’t just identify your phone number, just in case your phone is in the bag you dropped, or you’re using a different SIM. Also, not everyone can make international calls from their phone. Put an email address in too).
- · You don’t need to carry your passport or other ID in the UK. Better to keep it in the hotel safe. Some low level ID might be worth having, but it’s not essential.
- · The only crime which is really growing is identify fraud. You should look after your credit card. It is illegal for any shop to take your card out of your sight: they must bring the machine to you.
- · Try to use a Chip and PIN card. This is not just safety (because they are so easy to fraud and it’s more credible for the waitor to take your card out of your sight), but also sensible, as a lot of places will either not accept it, and those that do will not thank you for it.
Male Dress Code in
London
For business, generally a tie is not worn. Wearing a tie
indicates you’re a servant on some description. Ties are work in the financial
sector. In media, smart jeans and smart trainers (sneakers for the americans)
are OK. Jackets are common.
As a tourist: shorts and baseball caps are rare, and usually
flag someone as an American tourist. In hotter weather, bring lighter trousers.
Jackets are less common. T-shirts or collared shirts are common too. Jerseys
are common, as are hoodies for the younger more casual look. Man bags are more
‘London’ than backpacks, but both are prevalent.
Be aware that London is one of the most relaxed places in
Europe. Even outside of London, and certainly in southern Europe, the dress
codes are tighter.
Female Dress Code in
London
For females, the dress code is more universally consistent
in business.
As a tourist, there aren’t any real rules. Skirts should
generally be nearer the knee than the hip, and elegant goes does better than
slutty.